Lambrusco has what it takes to make a comeback.

Once loved, then forgotten, and now underestimated.

Lambrusco was once what Prosecco, Aperol Spritz, or Hugo are today: a popular aperitif drink. Now, the red sparkling wine from Italy is almost forgotten. Unjustly so?

Wine connoisseurship: that's the critical scrutiny and analytical tasting – enjoyment often falls by the wayside. It's a bit like a pampered connoisseur: the palate caresses the wine, but also immediately analyzes it. We don't relax and enjoy it without a care. Furthermore, we're also influenced by ratings, reviews, and reports. And then there are the prejudices! One goes like this: in the seventies, there was a pink, sweet juice in Europe that was drunk with practically everything: Lambrusco. Today, however, Lambrusco is hardly ever found on wine lists. Why?

One thing is clear: tastes have evolved. But Lambrusco has changed too. The wine from Emilia-Romagna (where Aceto Balsamico also comes from) is slowly but surely trying to adapt to the discerning palate.

There are approximately sixty different variations of this grape variety. It is also cultivated in Lombardy and in small quantities in South Tyrol. Argentina is also experimenting with it, at least on a small scale.

Looking for wine trends - will Lambrusco be one?

Mozart instead of bubblegum

Lambrusco, trend or no trend, is very old. The sparkling wine was already mentioned in Roman times. The effervescence in Lambrusco was originally created by bottling it while still fermenting. The fermentation continued in the bottle, producing the bubbles. The yeast remained in the bottle as sediment. Nowadays, most Lambrusco is fully fermented in tanks. Then, a little yeast and must are added, and a second fermentation is started – just like with sparkling wine.

While ninety percent of red sparkling wine should probably still be consumed with caution, it's worth discovering the remaining ten percent.

My discovery: the “Ciocapiàt” by Daniele Malavasi from the eponymous Cantina Malavasi in the province of Mantova in Lombardy.

The winery, now owned by the Malavasi family for four generations, is committed to sustainable viticulture to guarantee the quality of its wines and reduce the use of sulfur dioxide. Only in this way can the color, taste, and aroma of the wines be truly convincing – and the "Ciocapiàt" certainly impressed me.

The grapes were harvested by hand and appear dark and complex in the glass. Raspberries and grape aromas unfold. Only the sweet cherry scent still hints at syrup – but a touch of nostalgia can't hurt. On the palate, a magical blend of fresh fruit, character, and depth.

Leonard Cohen's song " Waiting for the Miracle " sums it up perfectly: " The Maestro says it's Mozart but it sounds like bubble gum. When you're waiting for the miracle, for the miracle to come. " In the case of Lambrusco—if you've got a good one!—it's exactly the opposite: You expect bubble gum and get Mozart.

The "Ciocapiàt" has a relatively low alcohol content of 11% by volume and, when served ice-cold from large red wine glasses, goes well with almost anything. I've had it, for example, with coconut gelato, bean stew, garlic bread, pizza, and ratatouille. Of course, it's also delicious on its own.

The "Ciocapiàt" is also a feast for the eyes. The bottle is pitch black, the design minimalist, elegant and modern.

A lovely gift for friends who know their wine – or at least pretend to. Their reaction will tell you just how much they really know about wine.

The new generation of Lambrusco has the potential to become a trendy drink once again. This currently underrated "shade of red" is a drink to celebrate the lightness of being: no preconceptions, no oenological jargon – just la dolce vita!

About the author Shirley Amberg

Shirley was born in Zurich and is a blend of Swiss, South African, Austrian, and English heritage. Her Swiss blood provides structure and foundation, while her South African heritage contributes harmony and passion. The Austrian adds charm and cheerfulness, and her English ensures she keeps her horizons open and her curiosity alive. Before turning her passion into her profession, she worked in investment banking. (On her website...) Shirleyamberg.com features her writing about her tastings and publications on the subject of wine.

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