Barth's Bubbles

Bismarck did not serve German sparkling wine to celebrate the Prussian-Bavarian treaty, which was signed in November 1870 and sealed the unity of Germany, but toasted with champagne; and this despite the fact that France had declared war on Germany four months earlier.

Shame!

Sparkling wine has a long tradition in Germany. In 1902, Kaiser Wilhelm II introduced a sparkling wine tax, partly to finance the navy. This tax has remained in effect ever since and amounts to €1.02 per bottle. The sparkling wine produced by individual winemakers (Winzersekt) as we know it today has been available in Germany since the late 1980s – only about one percent of the grape must harvest is processed into this product.

Germany may not be known for its sparkling, delicious drinks – but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

My latest discovery is the sparkling wine from the Barth winery in the Rheingau region.

To produce his sparkling wine, the winemaker must adhere to high quality standards. For example, he may only use grapes from his own vineyards for the base wine, which gives the sparkling wines the winemaker's personal touch. The winemaker determines the characteristics of his sparkling wine in every detail, from the composition of the base wines to the flavor profile. Furthermore, all sparkling wines produced by this winemaker must be made using the traditional method of bottle fermentation.

The grapes for the sparkling wine from Weingut Barth thrive in the heart of the Rheingau, one of the world's most renowned wine regions. Interesting fact: only in the Rheingau does the Rhine change its course to westward, allowing the sun to bathe the vineyards facing it all day long. The vines grow in prestigious vineyard sites such as Hattenheim Hassel, Wisselbrunnen, Schützenhaus, Hallgarten Hendelberg, and Schönhell. And although these plots of land are so close together, their soil structures couldn't be more different. For this reason, the Barth family crafts not only their wines but also their sparkling wines according to the specific characteristics of each vineyard site. And it shows!

"Wine is our discipline, sparkling wine our flagship product" – that's the family motto. Since the 1990s, the VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) Barth winery has been producing its own sparkling wine – the quality doesn't come about by chance, but results from intensive work and a deep passion and dedication. Every sparkling wine is produced using the traditional method, the classic method of bottle fermentation.

Pinot Blanc Brut

Fine, elegant perlage. Delicate, harmonious bouquet with typical, subtle floral aromas. Aromas of quince and fine yeasty notes. Pleasantly soft acidity on the palate. The lees aging adds structure and a creamy texture without overpowering the varietal character.

The grapes grow on the loess soil typical of the Rheingau region. The must ferments in stainless steel tanks to produce the base wine for sparkling wine. It rests on the lees for 24 months before being hand-riddled and disgorged.

With its creamy strength, this Pinot Blanc Brut can stand up particularly well to robust dishes.

Pinot Rosé Brut

A magical, sparkling color. The intense berry aromas entice you to take large sips. On the palate, the sparkling wine is reminiscent of a meringue with redcurrant jelly, accompanied by a hint of mint and a light, fresh note of salt.

Its sparkling color is achieved through the "Saigner method".

The term saignée, originating from French, literally means "bloodletting" – the word etymologically comes from saigner – to bleed. Indeed, in this process, the fermentation vessel containing the red wine must is "bled" after a few hours or days; that is, 10–20% of the must is drawn off without pressing, resulting in a reddish color.

This sparkling wine rests on the lees at a constant temperature for 36 months before being hand-riddled and disgorged.

With its intense red berry notes, this sparkling wine is an ideal accompaniment to savory snacks such as cheese, ham, and salami. It is also perfect with rosé-colored meat dishes like chops or venison.

This sparkling wine is also available in a magnum bottle. For this writer, it's the perfect size for two people.

Pinot Noir Brut

Deep, dark red with an exceptionally lively perlage. The nose is berry-like and spicy, while the palate unfolds the full typicity of this Pinot Noir. Balanced with soft and structuring tannins – probably the most wine-like of all Barth sparkling wines.

Winemaker Mark Barth ages the base wine for this red sparkling wine for a year in large wooden barrels before it undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle. The wine then rests on its lees for 120 months. Afterward, it is hand-riddled and disgorged.

With its spiciness and red wine character, this Pinot Noir sparkling wine pairs wonderfully with red meat, such as carpaccio, beef fillet, or venison, as well as with grilled vegetables. It also harmonizes surprisingly well with a moist slice of chocolate cake!

The Rheingau, one of the oldest wine-growing regions in the world, also boasts an impressive cultural landscape. Visit castles, palaces, and monuments (www.rheingau.de) or hike the popular Rheinsteig trail ( www.rheinsteig.de ) – naturally with a well-chilled bottle of Barth sparkling wine in your backpack!

About the author Shirley Amberg

Shirley was born in Zurich and is a blend of Swiss, South African, Austrian, and English heritage. Her Swiss blood provides structure and foundation, while her South African heritage contributes harmony and passion. The Austrian adds charm and cheerfulness, and her English ensures she keeps her horizons open and her curiosity alive. Before turning her passion into her profession, she worked in investment banking. (On her website...) Shirleyamberg.com features her writing about her tastings and publications on the subject of wine.

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